Rewrite. Personal favorites of the webmaster, mostly along Pyatnitskaya. Vegetarian establishments are described in detail at www.unclepasha.com/


Oct. 24, 2003

www.cheap-moscow.com

Where to eat
cheap and well
 in Moscow

 Main

Contact

=>
Drinking
 =>

This list assumes you are staying either with us on the canal, where we have two rooms, or with Asya (see backpacker accommodation), and thus centers around the Zamoskvorechye neighbourhood across the Moskva river from the Kremlin. Most places listed here are also within easy walking distance from the Rossiya hotel by the Red Square - the biggest concentration of "decently budget" travellers.

Positive feedback about good eating establishments from anywhere in Moscow is most welcomed. The places need to be inexpensive and yet meet minimal western standards of service and especially of the cleanliness of washrooms. Since a good percentage of backpackers are vegetarians please assess eating establishments you come across as vegetarian-friendly or otherwise.

The best method to submit feedback is by posting it on my Notice Board. This way the information is accessible to your fellow travellers even before I get around to sorting it out.

 


 Yes, my weekly vegetarian dinners are back. Soon. Likely days: Wednesdays and Saturdays. Watch for more on the board.

 

Most places you'll need are along Pyatnitskaya ulitsa (Metro Novokuznetskaya) or Klimentovsky pereulok (between M. Novokuznetskaya and Tretyakovskaya). Note these two streets on your map. This is an old merchant neighbourhood, and food was important for Russian merchants. The layout of streets in this old quarter of Moscow once again attracts numerous cafes and restaurants. I know of no other place in Moscow, let alone Russia, with such a concentration of eating establishments. Come to Zamoskvorechye to gorge yourself silly.


Street sign "Klimentovsky"


Street sign "Pyatnitskaya".

Featuring
The Tretyakovka Cafe and Antique Shop

"For the connoisseur of old Moscow charm"

Shesh Besh (Pyatnitskaya 24, near M. Novokuznetskaya). Middle eastern style food. This place is remarkable for its "salad bar" that includes much more than salads, and offers an unusual, for Moscow, selection of fresh vegetables at $7-8 per plate. Shesh-Besh is one of the most vegetarian-friendly establishments in Moscow. The fussiest of vegans will be able stuff themselves silly. As far as I know the only better place for vegetarians is the Dzhighanat??? Cafe & Restaurant on Kuznetsky Most on the other side of the river, by the KGB headquarters.

Yadrena Matrena (Klementovsky, M. Novokuznetskaya and Tretyakovskaya). You can get yourself stuffed and slightly drunk for $12-20. LOTS of positive feedback. The sign here says "Business lunch, 220R, drink included", and 220 roubles is about $8US.

 

   

 

Upshoe (Klementovsky, next door to Yadrena Matrena, M. Novokuznetskaya and Tretyakovskaya). Cheap breakfast, affordable lunch specials. Note, however, that this place, albeit being cheap, seems to welcome "fashionable" public only. We got the hint when the waiter would repeatedly refuse to bring us our spoons and forks. When, however, I brought in travellers of the club-going type the service was as good as it gets. The only place in the neighbourhood open around the clock.

Coffee Bean on Pyatnitskaya is right at the beginning of the street. Excellent feedback.

Max Internet Cafe. Behind the Novokuznetskaya Metro Station, open 24 hours, has reasonable coffee (both quality- and price-wise) and good sandwiches.

Grilliage Restaurant right at the beginning of Pyatnitskaya can be recommended as a place to celebrate a special occasion. Proper food, excellent coffee, and truly professional service. Live music. The bill, however, will be around $70 per person. Yes, I know, listing it is not consistent with the "Moscow-the-cheap" mission but.. And my apartment that is available for rent is at the back of the building.

Tretyakovka Cafe (M. Tretyakovkaya and Polyanka, right by the Tretyakov Fine Arts Gallery). One of my favourite eating establishments. Old-style Moscow charm that includes cats, amateur paintings on the wall, and antiques for sale. And their manager speaks fluent English and German. I like it so much I made a page for them.

Tretyakovka Restaurant is next door to the cafe. To be reviewed soon but something tells me it is going to be good.

"Nikon" Cafeteria (Paveletskaya pl. 1, M. Paveletskaya). Especially convenient to those staying in Catherine's bomb shelter). A tetechki-run establishment, with ever-greasy aluminum forks not yet replaced by plastic, and to use their washroom you ask the waiter who then goes to their "director" and upon her return makes a loud announcement that you've been granted the permission. Plastic table covers of the sort I've only seen in all-you-can-eat for $4Can Indian restaurant in Toronto 25 years ago. Places of cultural interest nearby: Lenin Funeral Train and Bakhrushin Theatre Museum. Also the Valenki (felt boots) Museum. A few steps from the Riverside Towers, one of Moscow's bigger business centers, and the new Opera House.

Examples of prices:

Entirely alright Turkish coffee - 10R (33 cents)
Moscow Brandy, 50g (1 1/3 oz.) - 30R ($1)
Small vegetable salad - 25R (under $1)
Fried potatoes - 10R (33 cents)
Squid - 57R ($1.60)

I staggered out overfed and slightly drunk for 250R ($7) including a small tip.

 

 

Any Moscow eating-out hints to share?
Please post to my Board or send me an e-mail.

Pasha